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The front desk at Argensal restaurant, shot by food photographer Brittany Kelley

Kingston

Welcome to a south-of-the-border party!

Meet our hosts, Maria Guevara and Sabrina Errecalde.

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These mamacitas are in a special rhythm in their Kingston commercial kitchen that would have John Travolta applauding. THE LAZY SUSAN is mesmerized as the culinary queens scoop, knead, shape, fry, and/or bake their wonder food. In fact, the unique flavors of Argensal brought home the “Best Food Truck in Kitsap” award in 2020.

Brittany and I are so ready to rock mouth-watering tamales, pupusas, empanadas, and more. Here’s how we would explain what makes their Argentinian and Salvadoran cuisine so unique: Whether it be a bold red like Cabernet Sauvignon, a substantive meritage like Ecole’s Frenchtown, or a classic Merlot, there’s a saying in the wine world that a particular vintage can possess a “velvety mouthfeel.” Round and supple, such elixirs glide down your throat and roll meltingly off your tongue.

A menu item at Argensal restaurant in Kingston, photo by food photographer Brittany Kelley

Well, that’s the kind of tasty fare Argensal dishes up, whether sweet or savory. Everything, from Maria and Sabrina’s classic pork tamales to the brand-new caprese empanada and the award-winning alfajor, a shortbread cookie sandwiched with caramel-y dulce de leche and rolled in coconut, melts in your mouth. Chewing is an afterthought.

This afternoon, THE LAZY SUSAN can’t wait to sit down with Argensal (although Brittany never gets to really sit down when we interview, doing what I call her “rain dance” as she captures magical pictures that just say “Yum”). Both stunning with bright eyes and even brighter smiles, the pair is alive with fun as they cook away. Their farmers’ market regular/event-based/catering business features an abundantly unique fusion of Central and South American cuisines.

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Salvadoran Maria gives a compliement to Argentinian Sabrina. “We connected over our love of food and family, culture, and a commitment to our community. For example, Sabrina uses only fresh corn for all our dishes. Nothing else.” Responds her partner, “I have tried canned or frozen, but I’m stuck on fresh, fresh corn. Our pupusas and empanadas and tamales would never taste the same if this core ingredient was processed in any way.” Maria chimes in: “Instead, we get Argensal’s corn from the farmers’ markets or trade goods or buy direct from the farmer. Local sourcing bonds us and our customers to the food we make.”

The best part of my Saturday is just a lip smack away. It may be misty and stormy out, but I’m determined to pick up some goodies from Argensal at the Poulsbo farmers’ market. Lo and behold, Maria and Sabrina’s booth boasts the longest line of anyone else’s. People are stacked like dominoes for their takeout boxes. Still, the early bird catches the worm and even though it’s only noon, they’re already out of some of the new offerings, like chorizo and cheese and jalapeño and cheese pupusas.

A couple of my favorites, like the slightly crispy yet soft pork-stuffed pupusas and the beyond-your-imagination creamed corn empanadas, are up for grabs. *Note that many of Argensal’s dishes are vegetarian. I also luck out with two newcomers. The caprese empanada, a crimped half-moon pie of gooey mozzarella and tomato-y freshness, nests in my hand. It reminds me of a delectable mini pizza. And don’t miss the latest addition to the menu: a Salvadoran-style tamale that bursts through the skin of the steamed banana leaves, delivering a savory molten polenta laced with tender chicken. You should eat it with a spoon to not miss a morsel.